DIY Kitchen Tile Backsplash

When we bought our house we really loved the kitchen layout and space but it wasn’t exactly what we would have picked if we built it. Our kitchen gets a lot of light but the dark cabinets just didn’t create the brightness and openness that we wanted! Part of the transformation included painting the cabinets. We have a separate post here on painting kitchen cabinets. The builder grade kitchen didn’t have a backsplash either, it was just drywall. We really wanted to just go the easy route and do peel and stick tile but ultimately decided to forego the short cut this time and give tiling a shot! We’re so happy we gave it a shot, it was time consuming but wasn’t as difficult as we envisioned.

Before:

After:

Tile Supplies

Step 1 Prep and Measure Wall

The first step is prepping the wall for tile. This includes removing all outlets, cleaning and wiping the wall down. We used a sander to smooth out anything that was rough to the touch. You want the surface to be completely clean and smooth. We got our tiles on sale and just picked up a few boxes and figured we can return what we didn’t use. There is a formula for determining the amount of tiles based on your wall size but we just estimated. The wall measurement you’ll need is the width of the wall. We started tiling directly in the middle of the wall (measure the tile length – ours was 6 inches), we put the 6 inch tile directly in the center of the wall and center of tile (3) inches to start.

Step 2 Laying the Tile

As you lay the tile youll also want to use a level to make sure its straight. We had a backsplash that the tile rested on so made it easy to keep it level. We used a wedge spacer on the very bottom row as shown:

To apply the adhesive we used a plastic notched trowel and used the 3/16th” 5mm side to spread the tile adhesive. Be mindful that it does dry pretty quickly so spread it in small amounts, and be prepared to get the tile up right away after its spread. As mentioned its best to start tiling in the center and bottom of your wall and work outwards. Use tile spacers to keep even distance between tiles and again use the level. Put the tile adhesive on evenly and keep it dispersed enough so the tile lays flat. The next challenge can be outlets. Use outlet spacers to pop the outlet out so that the face plate rests flat underneath the tile. More detail to come on cutting around the outlets in the next section. Continue laying the tile from the center outwards until you reach the edge. You may need to cut the end tiles to fit the space. The first row is easiest since you arent dealing with any measurements related to the design you choose. We went with the traditional “Running Bond 1/2 Offset” which looks like this:

Each tile is placed half way between the tile above it.

Cutting Around Outlets

This was probably the most challenging part of the whole project, we may or may not have ruined a few pieces of tile with a few trial and error cuts. There are two basic ways youll need to cut around the outlet based on where the tile lies on the wall and where the cut needs to start. The first of which is just a simple cut out from the side of the tile where you’re just cutting off a corner. Just turn the tile to make the cuts so it looks like this:

The second way requires multiple cuts with the tile saw to do a cut out around the outlet where the cut out (and outlet) is at the center of the tile. I just used a pen to draw a rough outline for cutting it

Do the two end cuts first so it looks like this:

Then you’ll make a bunch of cuts down the middle so you can then break off the pieces. They do have tile cutters but I didn’t need to use any. They broke off pretty well, and then use the tile sander to smooth it out. Keep in mind most of the cut will be hidden behind the outlet so it doesn’t need to be perfect.

This is what the end result looks like:

Step 3 Grout

Here is what the wall looked like before we put the grout on:

We went with a pre mixed light gray grout. It really makes the white tile pop and will be easier to keep clean! To apply the Grout we used our rubber grout flout. We basically just dipped it in the grout and spread it on the wall, its more watery than excepted but you get the hang of spreading it after a few times. Be sure to wipe it at different angles to really get in the cracks and angle the float different ways.

Similar to the way you do the tiles, do the grout in sections so that it doesn’t dry. After the grout is filled in the cracks, wipe with your grout sponge so that it’s clean.

Lastly make sure to use your put your outlets spacers on to pop the outlets out to lay flush on your tile when you put the cover on. Here is the end result:

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Board and Batten Entryway

Our front entry hallway was basically just a long wall. We at one time had a bench and some decor on the walls and then I changed to a console table. This project took only a day and totally transformed the space. Here is the space before:

Supplies (linked to Amazon if you don’t have it already)

  • Top Board (1) 1×4 (cut to the length of your wall)
  • Bottom Board (1) 1×4 (cut to the length of your wall)
  • Top Shelf (1) 1×1 (cut to the length of your wall wa1l) Note: all 3 of these top, bottom and shelf were 116.5 inches for our wall
  • Boards (6) 1×3’s at 5.5 ft (cut to the desired height of your board and baten wall)
    ** For all the boards used the unfinished Pine Common boards from Home Depot be sure to lay them on the ground and get the flattest ones possible. The pine boards tend to bow and they wont lay flat on the wall.
  • Brad Nailer Gun
  • White Painters Caulk
  • Caulking Gun
  • Wood Filler
  • Sanding sponge

Step 1: The Math (the not so fun part)

The first (and hardest step in our opinion) is figuring out the spacing of your boards. The total length of our wall was 9ft 8.5 inches. Its best to convert to inches to figure out the math. The total wall length for us was 116.5 inches. We had a vent in our space and that had to be considered when figuring out the space between boards. Obviously you cant put a board over a vent so you need to make sure the spacing is adjusted accordingly. We did have an outlet we had to cut around but its not as noticeable as a large vent would be.

The math: length of the wall (116.5 inches) minus the width of the boards (2.5 inches as confusing as it is 1×3 boards are actually 2.5 inches wide) divided by the number of boards you want (5 for us) and that gives you the spacing between each board.

116.5 (length of the wall) -2.5 (width of the boards) = 114inches
114 inches /5 (number of boards) = 22.8 inches

Our spacing then comes out to 22.8 inches between boards. As a general rule of thumb you want as close to 2ft as possible between boards.

Step 2 : Paint Your Wall

Phew now that the math is over with! Its time to prep your wall for paint. Give it a good wipe down with a paper towel and some water to clean the wall. If there are any uneven spots use your sanding sponges to smooth it down. Paint the wall the color of your choice. We went with a gray color. We painted our wall, secured the boards and then painted the boards (since youll be filling in holes with wood filler it made sense to us to paint the boards later but its whatever you prefer).

Step 3: Secure The Boards

Anchor the boards to the wall. We started with the bottom board and lined it up with our baseboard (you can also use a level to make sure its leveled out/even). Its easier to have two people for this part, one holding the board up and the other use the brad nail gun to secure it to the wall. We didn’t use any real method for the brad nail gun just make sure there are no gaps and everything is properly secured to the wall putting nails every 5 inches or so. Next we put up the 5 other boards. Its a good idea to line up or lay all the boards before securing them so you can make sure the space between each of them is equal. We had one board that fell directly over an outlet so we measured the space from the floor to the outlet bottom, and then the top of the outlet to the top of the Board and Baten wall so we could cut out the size of the outlet. After the middle boards are secured its time to do the top board. Again use your level to make sure its leveled out. Lastly the shelf (the 1×1) is placed on top of the top board (say that 3x fast).

Step 4: Fill in Holes and Sand

After the boards are secured to the wall use your wood filler to fill in all the holes from the nail gun. Let it dry completely and then use your sanding sponge to smooth it out.

Step 5: Caulking

The last step is to fill in any gaps with caulk. Be sure to get paintable caulk. We used a white caulk for ours but the color doesn’t necessarily matter as long as its paintable. We used our caulking gun and went along every seam/crevice to fill in spots where the wood didn’t lay exactly flush on the wall. As done with the wood filler, let it dry and then smooth everything out with your sanding sponge.

Step 6: Paint the Board and Baten Boards

You’re almost there! The final step is to paint the board and baten boards the same color you used for the wall. We ended up doing 3 coats of paints. Darker colors typically need less coats but light grays/whites usually take a few coats to get an even and finished look.

Step 7: YOU DID IT!

STARE AT THE FINISHED PRODUCT! You’re done 😉

Thank you for reading our post! If you decide to take on the project and use our steps we would love to see your final results (tag us on instagram @twinfixdiy)

This post contains affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, we will make a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Thanks for the support!